Britain’s best-known potato variety is facing fresh scrutiny as growers and processors question whether Maris Piper can still meet changing industry demands.
The issue was discussed at a British Potato Industry event, with a session on GB Potatoes asking: “Is Maris Piper over?”
The discussion, chaired by GB Potatoes chairman Alex Godfrey, brought together the contrasting views of Katie Pook, head of brand and marketing at Greenvale, and Gordon Stark, director of Teigrow.
Pook argued that although Maris Piper had been a mainstay in the sector for decades, the market in which it was nurtured no longer existed.
“It’s fair to say that the food and agriculture industry back then was a little different than it is today,” she said, pointing to the shift from small, locally-focused producers to today’s national supply chains.
He highlighted how industrialized the sector is, with larger machinery, fewer chemical control options, increased pest and disease pressure, and increasingly unstable weather.
“When Maris Piper came on the market in 1966, the variety Majestic accounted for 60% of the market,” she said, suggesting Majestic’s decline due to vulnerability to pests and diseases should serve as a warning.
Pook said Maris Piper’s potato cyst nematode resistance, yield consistency and versatility have helped it establish a dominant position, but market trends are moving further.
At its peak in the early 2000s, Maris piper covered almost a quarter of the UK’s potato area. Although it currently accounts for around 10%, its share of the fresh retail market has declined from 19.5% to 16.5% over the past four years.
Concerns about quality were also raised. “Importantly, consumers complain about poor quality, spoilage, and too much waste at certain times of the year,” Pook says.
He said that despite making up a much smaller portion of retail stores, Maris Piper can account for about 40% of all complaints from March to July, and that figure can reach 54% depending on the season.
Pook said that despite Maris Piper’s high profile, Greenvale research found that 93% of consumers who purchase Maris Piper would switch to another variety if it was unavailable.
“And in fact, that’s already changing,” she said, adding that retailers are increasingly seeking alternatives and using Maris Piper “at its best.”
Mr Stark defended the breed, saying Maris Piper had repeatedly proven its resilience.
“Maris Piper has brought out a variety of varieties,” he said, pointing to its long history across the chipping, packaging and even salad markets.
He argued that innate resistance to potato cyst nematode will remain important even as pest pressure evolves, and said Maris piper will continue to play a role in broader resistance strategies.
Mr Stark said between 500,000 and 700,000 tonnes of Maris Piper are still grown each year, with about 60 million tonnes produced over the past 60 years.
“Look at Piper. It’s cheap to plant and available in any market. We’ve never paid a penny in royalties,” he said, adding that seed prices are often lower than new varieties.
From a consumer perspective, he said celebrity chefs such as Delia Smith, Jamie Oliver, Hairy Bikers and Nigella Lawson continue to promote Maris Piper.
Mr Stark acknowledged that climate change was making it difficult to grow the variety in parts of England, but said this was pushing production further north.
“So it’s great for us that you guys can’t grow any more,” he said. “Don’t confuse ambition with ability, girls!”
Audience discussions also considered late blight pressure, the role of genetic engineering in future varieties, and the eating and mash quality of Maris Piper compared to new alternative varieties.
Summing up the vote, Godfrey said: “While I believe there may be an advantage for those who believe Maris Piper is over, it was a close victory and I have no doubt that the debate will continue.”
Although opinions remain divided, the discussion highlighted that the future of Maris Piper can no longer be taken for granted, with producers increasingly placing familiarity and market demand over agricultural performance and long-term resilience.
